Jeff West was seeking a change from his bustling life in West Hollywood, where he had spent decades managing clubs and restaurants. After exploring various destinations like Laguna Beach and Palm Springs, he found himself drawn to a pair of small towns on Lake Michigan, with a combined population of just under 2,500 people.
“I arrived in winter and was immediately captivated,” recalled West, 67, who hails from Texas and spent much of his life in Southern California. “The snow was absolutely stunning. I remember feeling my shoulders relax.”
In the summer, West enjoys the lake with friends, and in winter, he participates in a local gay bowling league known as the Gutter Queens. Since relocating in 2021, he has transitioned to real estate, enthusiastically promoting the area’s charm.
Saugatuck and Douglas, nestled within Michigan’s Bible Belt, represent a vibrant LGBTQ+ enclave. Though these towns are off the radar compared to more renowned gay destinations, their appeal is on par with popular spots like Provincetown and Fire Island.
During the warmer months, the area feels like a summer camp retreat. Hammocks adorn the grounds of a favored coffee shop, and children gleefully toss floats from their parents’ car windows.
Pride flags are prominently displayed on numerous businesses and homes, creating a striking contrast with the more conservative neighboring towns. The Dunes Resort is a hub of activity, with its pool brimming with Speedo-clad men and its dance floor glittering with confetti and disco balls every weekend.
“This is a small community where we can enjoy life’s finer things and truly be ourselves,” West said. “It’s like paradise to find a place where you feel so welcomed.”
The Fire Island of the Midwest
Saugatuck and Douglas have long attracted queer tourists and residents, with a history that stretches back to the late 19th century. Artists, eccentric couples, and LGBTQ+ entrepreneurs have all contributed to the area’s colorful legacy.
The Chicago Tribune notes that by the 1960s, the towns had become a “loosey-goosey haven for pleasure-seekers, gay or straight.” During this period, Saugatuck was known as a party spot for motorcyclists, college students, and queer individuals from various locales.
Travel guides like Bob Damron’s Address Book began highlighting Saugatuck as “The Fire Island of the Midwest.” Although state regulations at the time banned bars from catering specifically to gay groups, a jazz venue called The Blue Tempo gained a reputation for welcoming gay patrons.
The Blue Tempo was noted in the second edition of Bob Damron’s Address Book as a bar frequented by a mixed crowd. Nearby, a beach area that stretched from Saugatuck’s Oval Beach to the Kalamazoo River also gained attention.
John Rossi, facilities manager at the Ox-Bow School of Art and Artists’ Residency, recalls paying a $5 fee to use Denison’s Beach, owned by a local marine businessman. “It was primarily a gay spot, but there was a diverse mix,” Rossi said, noting occasional straight couples and lesbians among the beachgoers.
Rossi, who grew up in Grand Rapids, first visited the area in the 1970s based on word-of-mouth recommendations. “There was a network of safe places, and we knew where to go and where not to,” he said.
From The Blue Tempo to The Dunes
One of the regulars at The Blue Tempo was Carl Jennings, who, while still closeted, tended bar in Saugatuck on weekends. “You had to live two lives back then, appearing straight in public while seeking refuge in places like Saugatuck,” Jennings shared with Michigan Public Radio in 2016.
Following the Blue Tempo’s destruction in 1976, Jennings, who came out to his family in the early 1980s, and his partner Larry Gammons decided to open a gay resort. Initially, they faced resistance from the Saugatuck town council, which refused to grant a liquor license to a gay establishment.
Eventually, they purchased a closed motel in Douglas and succeeded in obtaining a liquor license at their first council meeting. The Douglas Dunes Resort, which opened in 1981, quickly became one of the largest LGBTQ+ resorts in the nation.
“May 1 was our grand opening, and it was overwhelming. Cars lined the highway, and word spread quickly among the gay community,” Gammons said. “The excitement was palpable, and the news traveled fast.”
To ensure safety, Gammons and Jennings employed their own security and coordinated with local police to address any external threats. Despite occasional confrontations, including bomb threats and harassment from hate groups, the resort gained fame for its lively parties and stellar entertainment.
“We had fantastic performances and tea dances every Sunday,” Gammons said. “We even turned down Madonna early in her career.”
By the mid-1990s, Gammons reported that gay tourism contributed approximately $6 million annually to the area. In 1998, Gammons and Jennings sold The Douglas Dunes to Danny Esterline, Greg Trzybinski, and Mike Jones, who renamed it The Dunes Resort.
A Legacy of Acceptance
Although it is often cited that Saugatuck-Douglas hosts over 140 gay-owned and friendly businesses, Jones notes that this figure was exaggerated for promotional purposes. Nonetheless, he fondly remembers his first visit to The Dunes in 1990.
“It was a stark contrast to other places. Even in Chicago at that time, public displays of affection among gay couples were rare,” Jones said. “Here, in the midst of a conservative region, it felt like a protected bubble.”
Jones, who previously visited major gay hotspots, was surprised to find himself drawn to the charm of The Dunes. “I’ve been to many renowned gay destinations, but they never made me feel like I wanted to settle there,” he said.
Historical Roots and Evolution
The queer history of Saugatuck and Douglas dates back over a century. The Saugatuck-Douglas History Center has records of LGBTQ+ individuals in the area as early as 1917, including interior designer Florence “Dannie” Ely Hunn and her partner Mabel “Jims” Warren.
The area’s early acceptance can be attributed to its artistic community. Elizabeth Bandle, who owned a farm in Saugatuck, welcomed artists and professors, fostering an environment of openness that continued through the 20th century.
Artists like Frederick Fursman and Walter Marshall Clute, who visited Bandle Farm and later founded Ox-Bow in 1910, contributed to a tradition of inclusivity. “Saugatuck attracted avant-garde artists and free thinkers, creating an accepting environment,” said Gollannek, director of the local history center.
As LGBTQ+ individuals sought refuge in Saugatuck-Douglas, they found a place where they could express themselves openly. Despite the area’s changing dynamics, including the rise in costs and the loss of some historical sites, the legacy of acceptance endures.
“The city now owns the land where Denison’s Beach used to be,” Gammons noted. “So, no more nudity or liquor, but the spirit of the place remains.